A Salute to Sarajevo

April 12th - April 17th.  Rome to Istanbul was a nice transition from life in the heart of urban Italy to the beating heart of Turkey. The crossover in culture from Roman to Ottoman rule and beyond was interesting to see. Sarajevo, in Bosnia-Herzegovina was a perfect next step in exploring Roman, Muslim and European influences on a city's culture and architecture.

We arrived in Sarajevo on Pegasus airlines from Istanbul and took a taxi into town. We were expecting to see dilapidated, bombed out buildings and desolate areas along the route (the areas surrounding the airport were hit very hard during the 1992-1995 conflict). And we did, but we also saw gleaming new buildings and slow progress towards rebuilding a new, vibrant city. Both Michael and I read The Cellist of Sarajevo ahead of our visit. It is a good read in it's own right, but an especially good primer about life in this city during the war.

Bomb Damage in the center of the city still waiting for repair

One of many cemeteries filled with fallen victims. This one is in town.

We pulled in front of our new home https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/420924 and were met by our host Emir. He had been really helpful in gathering information for us and helping Michael organize a chance to see a local football match. Emir loves his city - and that is one of the best parts of being an airbnb traveler, meeting your host and getting great insight and tips from a local.
   
We found the neighborhood store so we stocked up on basics and then headed out. The apartment location was great, of course hills and stairs to get to the city center were involved - but we have come to appreciate and expect that now. Got our phone SIM cards installed so we could use maps, text and make limited phone calls. We had a free walking tour booked for Monday morning so we wandered through town without an agenda. The highlight was an great lunch in old town and then watching two dozen men centered around a chess match underway in the town square. This takes place all day, everyday - and it's serious. I loved the giant plastic pieces that had been battered and duct taped together many times.

And when we didn't have stairs, there were free exercise machines in the parks

The chess games played here are serious business.

We attended Palm Sunday mass at the Catholic cathedral. It was interesting ... lots of waving of palm fronds, incense and somber music. Early in the service the entire congregation (well those under 75, and those that could walk - so really about half) followed the Bishop and other important men in hats along with the clergy outside for a precession around the church to symbolize Christ's entry into Jerusalem. Two hours later we proceeded - or perhaps sprinted to the nearest doner stand and devoured lunch. We found a free guitar concert to attend later in the evening.

Returning to church after the Palm Sunday procession

Food shopping here is not the best. I did find a fresh market that I could visit on Monday - but meanwhile the offerings in the grocery stores in our neighborhood were meager. I was ready to roast my traditional first day chicken and I started to prepare it and the chicken was, lets just say, funky. As in spoiled. Yuk. Pizza anyone?

Just a peek at the potatoes in our local store. No thanks.

While I was dealing with that, Michael attended a football match, and as always made a new friend and learned the secret to cracking pumpkin seeds - the official snack of Bosnian football along with Capri Sun. No beer and peanuts for these fans.

Michael and his new friend Paul at the Olimpico Sarajevo v Zeljeznicar match

Monday we met our walking tour guide Neno. He was young, enthusiastic and full of knowledge.
We were joined by a dozen others and headed out under sunny skies. Neno was a young, 7 year old boy when the war began - but he had strong memories of being frightened and then becoming used to the constant shelling and gun fire. He also remembers always being hungry. And of his mother doing whatever she could to bring food home along with occasional packets of sugar that he would make last for days.

The shell craters in the city where civilians died are filled with red cement and called Sarajevo Roses. And once you started looking for bullet holes in buildings they were everywhere. The whole experience gave us chills.

Our free walking tour guide Neno. He really made the city come alive.

A Sarajevo Rose mark a spot where citizens died in the shelling

Bullet holes could be seen everywhere - they seemed so random.

More evidence - just around the corner from our apartment

There is ancient history to be found here that pre-dates the conflicts of the 90's. Roman ruins, rule under the Ottoman Empire and the extensive Muslim influence that came with that, several sighting of the Virgin Mary in the hillsides, The Austro-Hungarian occupation, the First World War (the fuse was lit here), and then the Nazi invasion during World War II. This city can't catch a break!

In happier times, Sarajevo hosted a successful Winter Olymoics

I'd had my fill of sad stories so Michael went to the Srebrenica Memorial Museum on his own. He was given a nice personalized tour from a young women who appreciated his interest and gave him great insight into the past and the current political situation here.

Here are Michael's thoughts on Sarajevo:

It is hard to know where to start with the story of Bosnia and Herzegovina and its capital Sarajevo. As a student of European History and a follower of current events and politics I looked forward to seeing Sarajevo in person. for me, it turned out to be the most educating, fascinating and eye-opening stops we've had since leaving home last July.

The country really is called Bosnia and Herzegovina but  is often shortened to Bosnia. Sarajevo is the capital. The population is around 4 million people which is the same as Oregon. Bosnia was part of the Yugoslavian Federation from 1945 - 1992. You may remember that Sarajevo hosted the 1984 Winter Olympics.

After the Berlin Wall came down in 1989 and while the Soviet Union was falling apart, the various countries of the Federation sought their own independence which, before long, resulted in a full-scale civil war. Bosnia suffered the most during the war which ran from 1992 - 1995 because its population was pretty evenly divided between three factions: the Croatians (Roman Catholic) Serbians (Orthodox Christian) and Bosniaks (Muslims). It was during this time that Sarajevo was under siege from the Serbs for almost three years. In the last decade three key Serb leaders have been tried in the Hague at the International Criminal Court on charges of war crimes and genocide.

One other piece of history, it was in Sarajevo where Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand  was assassinated in 1914 next to the Latin Bridge that proved to be the start of WW I. Today, the country is one of the poorest in Europe with 44% unemployment, the highest in Europe.

All in all, this is a fascinating city that I encourage you to visit. 

A surprise Spring snow shower from our window.

The next day we woke up, stretched, yawned looked out the window and gaped at a sky filled with snowflakes the size of goose feathers! It had been sunny and 68 degrees the day before! It snowed most of the day. As you can see from the photo our nieghborhood wasn't picturesque - and even snow, which has a way of making everything look pretty didn't have much to work with. But it was fun - and made for a nice walk.

Tomorrow we are off for almost three weeks in Croatia. A country that has been on our must visit list for some time. We are traveling 8 hours by bus from Sarajevo.  First stop Split, then Hvar and finally Dubrovnik. Sun please.

Thanks again for following along!

Debbie and Michael
Senior Nomads

Istanbul - a Mosqued Ball

April 2nd - April 17th, 2014  We left Rome for Instanbul via Turkey's Pegasus airlines. It was an easy trip with thanks to the woman at check-in that gave us a 'wink' on our slightly overweight bags. However I should note that I breezed through security with a forgotten, full to the brim water bottle in my carry-on. Hmm. Seems like a part of the world that might have cared about that sort of thing. Upon arrival we were directed to a window where we were required to purchase a visa for 20 Dolars (see sign below) before heading to customs clearance. Seemed a little less than official.

At least we got lovely stamps in our passports!

Our newest home was in a neighborhood called Cihangir. It is an emerging artists enclave and a 'hip' place to live. I put that is quotes because we are, afterall, in a Muslim country. We loved it! Lots of quirky galleries, shops, restaurants and easy access to the metro system. We could also walk to the shores of the Bosphorus and catch the tram into the center or walk the other way to bustling Taksim Square.Here's the link to our apartment: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/85717. It was very comfortable and quiet with a garden view.

A delicious traditional Turkish breakfast. So healthy - and so good!

Our favorite lunch - maybe not quite as healthy but just as good!

Pomegranates waiting to be juiced. Back to healthy!

If you stay in this area it helps if you like cats. Lots of cats. They peer in your windows, sleep on your car, long for your scraps, jump on your lap and basically swagger through the neighborhood - knowing the neighbors will take care of them. There are even kitty condos lined up in the alleys!

Just step over me please.

We added Istanbul to our itinerary for the opportunity to connect with two wonderful women who influenced our lives as a family a long time ago. I am afraid this blog may be more about them than the wonders of Istanbul. Which, of course, are endless, but the chance to sit and reminisce with Sevim and Fatma was priceless.

As many of you know we lived in London from 1986 to 1991 when Michael took a job with the sports management company ProServ. We moved from Seattle as Chris, Mary and Kelly turned 2, 4, and 6 and Alistair joined us a few months later when he was 14. We bought a house in a village a short distance from Hampton Court (about 15 miles from London) called Sunbury-on-Thames. Our house, No. 3 Willowbank,  was built in 1789 and sat just across the road from the River. It was an amazing experience to live there and to raise children there - but it would not have been the same without a series of Au Pairs that helped with our hectic lives. Michael was working and traveling like crazy and I was freelancing to begin with as a copywriter and then worked for two different ad agencies before starting a freelance company of my own called Willowbank Design.

We had several girls live with us over those years and they helped with the kids and running the house when not attending English classes. They all had their benefits and made an impression on our lives - but until Fatma and then Sevim arrived from Instabul for a year each, we didn't know that so much love and lasting friendship would come from those relationships.

Sevim with the kids on her last day in 1991

After 24 years we were able to connect with both of them. And with true Turkish hospitality, they made our time together beyond special. When Sevim joined us in 1990 she brought great energy and humor to our family. She was always laughing and hugging everyone! A lot.

We enjoyed a fabulous family meal at her home with her mother, brother, his wife and their two children. Sevim is an excellent cook and while she lived with us we had a great time in the kitchen together. On this occasion she spoiled us with all of our favorite dishes she made in Sunbury - Dolma, lemon chicken soup, Kofte, Pilaf, her amazing apple pie and more. It was so nice to be hosted in her home and see her with her family.

Sevim with her Turkish spread and dear brother Ishmail

Two days later she treated us to a six hour boat tour on the Bospherus. We spent the whole sunny afternoon leisurely heading up the strait and back with a stop for the perfect lunch of whole fresh fish off the grill and frosty beers - followed by best handmade ice cream I have ever tasted.

On board the Bosphorus tour with english audio tours loaded

Enjoying the day with one of our Turkish daughters

Our other beautiful daughter, Fatma. We both cried often!

Next up was a much anticipated day with Fatma and her family. Fatma came to us in 1989 fresh from University. She was shy and her English was not as advertised, but we fell in love with her gentle ways, her easy smile and her immediate attachment to the children. Her English improved dramatically under the guidance of our young, demanding children! Fatma's future husband Sungur joined us in Sunbury shortly after she arrived. He took a room nearby and took courses at a nearby college. He also became an entertaining part of our family and even became our housekeeper! They married and have two lovely children, a precocious ten year old son Alperen, and the beautiful Tugba, who is 19 and hopes to become an English teacher. They also have a very cool kitten named Shadow. 

Fatma and Sungur live on the Asian side of Istanbul. We took a quick ferry ride across the Bospherus and they met us at the boat. I don't think I have ever been hugged harder! We took a drive through the area along the coast and then up to Adile Sultan Sarayi, a huge, elegant restored palace that is now a special events venue and museum. It housed an elegant restaurant with an expansive view of the European side of Instabul and the water. The lunch was typically turkish and delicious. We had so much catching up to do that we sat there for three hours!

Four very full friends after our long and lovely lunch!

Both Sevim and Fatma had tons of photos from their time with us.

Next we headed to their home to meet the kids and have tea. Sungur has a extensive record collection and elaborate sound system so he kept us entertained while Fatma served tea and homemade pastries. We caught an evening ferry home and collapsed in a food coma! 

The ladies - Fatma, me and Tugba (pronounced Tuba) in a selfie

In between fetes we took visited the Blue Mosque, Tapeki Palace, the Grand Bazaar, The Spice Market and wandered the length of Istiklal Caddessi; one of the four great shopping streets of Europe! It was also tulip time in Istanbul. The parks and gardens, balconies, and even the sides of the freeway were decked out in elaborate plantings that added a big dash of Spring color to even dark corners of the city.

One of the many tulip gardens in contrast with the ancient buildings

The Grand Bazaar was a maze of merchandise. I haggled for a silver chain

Preparing to visit the The Sultan Ahmed Mosque

And of course, there was a football match involved! We met up with a new friend, a young man named Dorukhan Gungor that Michael befriended on a walking tour in Barcelona (he's so good at that) to watch the all important Derby (intercity) match between Galatasaray and Fenerbahc.

Skewers of lamb and peppers being grilled for a Icli Kofte dinner.

Michael tried to get two tickets to the match but the prices was sky high for this annual clash between Istanbul's two biggest rivals - $500. per ticket, so Dorukhan arranged for a delicious, traditional "Icli Kofte" kebab dinner in a town two trains ride away called Sanyer. Then back to the city to our reserved table on the top floor annex of a tavern on Nevizad Street to watch the broadcast. This narrow, winding street is lined with restaurants and bars, and every one was filled to the gunnels with fans. Not of both teams mind you. If you showed up in Fenerbach colors in this street you would have been served up as dinner. Our perch was above the fray, and as always, being with a local person was so helpful. Dorukan was very gracious and fun to be with and gave us great insight on the scene. The match itself was harrowing (and fun) to watch. I am glad Michael was not in the potentially dangerous melee at the stadium - the street scene outside the bar was crazy enough!

Press coverage the day after the Derby. So fun to watch.

Too soon, it was time to move on. Fatma and Alperin came to the airport for one last hug and to see us off. We will miss them and all that she and Sevim did to make our stay magical and memorable.

We are looking forward to visiting Sarajevo and seeing first hand the aftermath of the war there. Michael already has a football match lined up as well! I read the Cellist of Sarajevo in anticipation and it is a great read.

Fondly,

Debbie and Michael Campbell
The Senior Nomads 

Ruined Romans

We were feeling his pain

March19th - March 31st.  We've been battling colds with persistent coughs, stuffy heads, achy bones, scratchy throats, and a little lethargy. We feel a little like our friend here, but we rallied and enjoyed our time in Rome to the fullest.

Speaking of ruined. This map got a work out!

We arrived in Rome via Barcelona on Vueling airlines, Spain's version of Easy Jet, with no difficulty.  It may have been the smoothest travel day yet, but we were still quite a distance from our airbnb apartment. A taxi ride from the airport is a luxury on our Nomad's budget, but we try and take it easy on entry days since we often don't know the city. But once we learn the terrain we walk or use public transport during our stay and, if practical, we use it to reach the airport or train station for the next leg. In this case we splurged on a taxi from the airport to our front door.

The bridge we used to cross the Tiber River to the city

One of the more interesting aspects of traveling this way is you don't always know what your front door looks like. It's not like pulling up to a hotel or going home to Mom's. After a good 40 minutes the taxi parked between a sketchy looking motorcycle repair shop next to a restaurant that looked like it hadn't had guests (or at least changed the decor) since the 70's. Luckily our lovely host, Federica raced around the corner to welcome us with hugs and to help with our luggage. It was a good thing since she lead us through some creaky green gates that led up a switchback driveway past several apartment buildings until we reached the top of the hill. Of course. If she hadn't been there it would have been challenging to find.

I can see Michael and I getting matching Vespas some day

As always, the apartment was great. In this case, lots of personal style and thoughtful decor made it Nomad worthy https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/406693  Enjoying life as a local starts with living in someone else's home, and as long as you don't have to step over laundry, deal with weird stuff in the bathroom, and the bed is comfortable ( we are traveling with our beloved pillows from home - it makes all the difference) then we are fine.

Most often our homes-away-from-home have matched or exceeded our expectations. We've got our airbnb search criteria down and we zero in quickly on the places that work best for us on price and amenities - and now we look really closely at the pictures for clues as to what the space is really like. I think airbnb should hire us as ambassadors at this point!

Meanwhile, back to Rome. Our neighborhood was truly residential  - definitely not on the tourist maps, although we were only a 20 minute walk from the Vatican. We were on the opposite side of the river from the center of Rome, but just a short metro ride away from the heart of the city. 

We seem destined to live on hills wherever we stay

As we explored our side, we found an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants and street markets selling everything you could possibly need. Or not. The Aquarium store was next to the barbershop, that was next to the Kebab joint, that was next to one of dozens of coffee houses, and so on. And as much as I love shopping, you can see in this next photo there was no real need to top-up my summer wardrobe.

Open back? Leopard strapless? Too hard to decide.

However, just down the street there was an excellent grocery store. Odd that I didn't find a fresh food market nearby, but this place was great. But the really great find at this store was Marco! My new found friend and superb store clerk. He was so helpful and very funny. His English was delightful and he was committed to learning all about Seattle and our travels. He helped me find the ingredients for Banana Bread - baking soda and vanilla being the odd ones, and of course that earned him some of the final effort. It wasn't my usual Blue Ribbon winner, and in fact he declared it a little too sweet for his taste, but it earned me a lovely bottle of Pinot Grigio as a going away present on our last day. We will definitely stay in touch.

Whew! Found it all with Marcus at my side. Although he didn't believe me that you could use Bicarbonate in baking.

Who needs a blue ribbon? Thanks Marco!

I did have the most fabulous pizza almost every day from a hole in the wall about a half a mile from the house. There was a line out the door every day for a reason.

In Rome's 'rustic pizza' shops fresh pies are lined up on a hot stone counter. They are cooked as large rectangles and you buy your pizza by weight, so you can try several flavors from an array of a dozen or more. If you choose a mix it goes in a box - in my case the 6" x 9" chunk was scored, folded and  wrapped in wax paper for immediate consumption. For my daily delight I settled on a large, just-out-of-the-wood-burning-oven slab of sweet cherry tomatoes,sassy green olives and cheese.

Linus obviously disapproves of me having more pizza, but Snoopy is all for it.

Am I leaving out art, history, culture and religion? Sorry! We got great big helpings of those as well.It started with our 'must have' free walking tour covering the highlights.We also took the free Vatican walking tour a few days later. Once we had our bearings and had the metro figured out we were off and, well, walking.

Still pondering this one. Worth some coins in the pot.

Fresh cold water from unlikely spigots found all over town

Michael had not been to the Vatican before so it was a much anticipated visit. We attended mass at St. Peter's on our first Sunday and then stood in awe of the interior of the basilica and it's saturation of art and history. We stepped outside to head to our next stop but instead we were swept up in a throng of 40,000 people gathered to watch several big screens while keeping an eye on a very tiny window on the top floor of the Papal palace as Pope Francis delivered his fifteen minute Sunday address. We saw both - but if you have even a drop of anxiety when it comes to crowds you would not have survived this ordeal.

This shot doesn't begin to show the Holy See of humanity!

One must-see I didn't know about was the Vatican Museum. And even after encouragement I wasn't sure I wanted to see a bunch of musty relics collected (pilfered?) by Popes. Boy was I wrong about this one. It's almost hard to describe the artwork and the opulence to be discovered in every new hallway of the Papal Palace that housed this museum. Of course there were Egyptian treasures, and so many marble statues you might think a goodly portion of the Roman population had been turned to stone. By the way in statue heaven everyone gets their body parts back!

Just one of many mind boggling hallways in the Vatican Museum

And gold. There was a lot of gold. But it was the truly magnificent paintings and frescoes that made me dizzy. That also could have been from looking up the a lot of the time, but mostly because they were real. In place - painted by every famous Italian master you can imagine. Did I mention the Sistine Chapel? I didn't even know you could go there! And there was so much art to go around there were electric plugs drilled into masterpieces that most museums would die for.

Just a glimpse of what lies overhead

The weather in early April wasn't bad and we were able to avoid long lines. Having said that, our colds were keeping us on a slower pace than normal and we didn't try and do too much. We took in two free classical music concerts at the English Church and a lovely performance of opera, ballet and chamber music combined at another cathedral. I am afraid my churches are all running together at this point - but if you travel like this, be sure and check posters outside of churches because we've found there is always something wonderful to see or hear that you might not find otherwise.

I loved this angel. She can be my guardian any day. 

We took a great day trip out of the city to Castel Gondolfo where generations of Popes have cooled off at their official Summer Palace. It was a lovely sleepy afternoon ahead of the tourist season. We had a great lunch with a view of the lake, played some backgammon and just lived in the moment. On the train ride back we followed Roman ruins all along the Appian Way.

The trusty train that chugged up the mountain for our day out.

A lovely lunch, backgammon, books and a bottle of wine. All is well. 

The view most of the way back to Rome

Michael was able to put together another outstanding football experience. He watched The Lazio vs. Parma Match at Stadio Olimpico and had another great story to tell including purchasing his ticket in a sporting goods store where the door was flanked by bouncers and there was a solid police presence.

The store where Michael worked his way in and came out in one piece.

Match number 12 on our trip! A great part of the adventure.

Too soon it was time to leave. But we are looking forward to Istanbul and seeing dear friends there.Thanks again for following along. This blog is a good excuse for me to keep track of our adventures - and we appreciate your comments.

Fondly - Debbie and Michael